Healthy Lawns: An Integrated Approach to Lawn Care

Bay Creek Neighborhood homeowners, and others who do lawn care, were recently treated to a presentation by Mindy Habecker, Natural Resources / Community Development Educator for Dane County UW Extension. This article is a summary of that presentation, entitled Healthy Lawns: An Integrated Approach to Lawn Care.

Some care and attention to your yard and lawn can increase the attractiveness and value of your home a great deal. The good news: it does not take a lot of work, or a lot of chemicals, to have a nice lawn and yard. Some forethought and planning is key.

Start by thinking about your lawn and how you use it. Ask all family members for their input and needs. If you have kids who like backyard sports, starting a prairie restoration may not go over well! Also, take into account that your needs will change—your toddler's sandbox or swing-set may not be wanted down the road. Try to think ahead before making long-term changes.

To pick appropriate species to plant, think about:

• Soil type: Testing is available through Extension. Pick up kits and borrow soil core collectors at 1 Fen Oak Court, Room 138, Madison. Cost is $15. Return kits to Soil and Plant Analysis Lab at 5711 Mineral Point Road. Also get the information sheets to fill out about the sample at Extension or at this link: http://uwlab.soils.wisc.edu/lab_info_sht.asp
• Aspect: East and north slopes are moister, west and south ones drier. In addition, north sides of homes are cooler than south sides.
• Drainage: How damp or dry is the area?
• Sunlight:If less than 4 hours of light per day, consider fine fescue grasses or woodland plants
• Visibility: You may care more about eliminating weeds in the front lawn than the back
• Use and wear in high traffic areas, where you walk, your dog runs along the fence, or your kids play on the swingset are areas where turf dies. They will become weedy and muddy. Something other than turf may be needed.

When planning non-turf areas, remember that beds of plants require less work than single plants scattered around the yard. Also remember the importance of ground cover or mulch in non-turf areas. Among their many benefits, they reduce soil runoff, which is a big cause of lake pollution and lake weeds. You may need to consider the pH of the mulch you choose and its effects on nearby plants. Check with garden store staff.

Landscaping with native plants is growing in popularity. Prairie plants are hardy and beautiful once established, but take a bit of work to get started (previous species must be removed completely). Prairie areas have virtually no run-off, because of the plants' dense root systems. They like dry sunny spots and need no fertilizer. In fact, they fare better without it. They do best when burned every 3-5 years. (Get a burn permit from the Fire Department and a license from the City Clerk first. Cheryl Peterson, City of Madison Fire Code Enforcement Officer, will take questions about permits for prairie burning at 261-9657.)

Keeping turf areas looking great

• Mow high—at least 3 inches. Taller grass has deeper roots and is stronger, healthier and more resistant to disease, drought and weeds.
• Never cut off more than 1/3 inch of leaf height in a single mowing, or you will stress the roots and weaken the plant.
• Mow when grass is dry—never right after a rainfall or watering. Leave clippings on the lawn. They return nutrients to the soil, and contrary to popular belief, do not cause thatch. Thatch is an indication of other problems. It develops when there are not enough microbes in the soil to break down organic matter, which builds up on the surface instead. Compacted or clay soils, or areas where pesticide over-use has killed off soil microbes are the underlying problems which need to be addressed.
• Mower blades should always be sharp. Dull blades damage and weaken the plants.

Fertilizing tips

• Don't fertilize before testing your soil! You may do more harm than good, to your lawn and the lakes! (This applies even to "natural" or "organic" fertilizers.) Testing costs 15 dollars and only needs to be done every 3–4 years. Extension will make recommendations about amending your soil if needed. Be sure to tell them details about your site: the light it receives, what grows there, etc.
• If your soil does need fertilizer, don't apply it in the spring. You will just make more work for yourself mowing the lawn and the grass does not really need it then. When fertilizer is really needed is in the fall, to help the roots grow sufficiently and store up food to survive the winter. Don't fertilize before August 15. And wait at least 2 weeks after mowing to apply.
• Slow release fertilizers may be easier on the environment, especially in sandier soils. Clay soils may need a fast release to make the nutrients available quickly.

Understanding weeds

Weeds are really the symptoms of poor turf management, such as over or under-fertilizing, or planting the wrong species for the site. Keeping your turf dense and healthy is the best weed control:

• Start by pulling weeds in the spring when roots are weak. Some species will come back stronger next year if you weed heavily in the fall.
• Use chemical herbicides as a last resort, since they can cause unwanted problems for your lawn in the long run. If you do need to resort to chemicals, blanketing your lawn with a weed-and-feed product is a bad idea. Spot applications for specific problems are more effective and less damaging to your lawn's health.

Turf Watering Tips

You should water only in the morning. Grass needs about one inch a week, so supplement what nature does not provide. However, during a true drought, don't water. Instead let your grass go dormant.

Planting new grass

August or September is the best time to plant new grass. Cover with mulch until about 1" tall. Water lightly daily until then as well.

One more tip to help our lake: leaves and grass clippings left in piles near the curb may run off into the lake when it rains. This pollutes the lake. Keep the storm sewer near your home free of plant debris and bag unwanted clippings and leaves for the city to take, or compost them yourself.

Call or email Mindy if you have any questions about integrated lawn care: habecker@co.dane.wi.us or 224-3718

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